tisdag 31 mars 2009

San Michele and magic of an island..

Last night, one of my close friends called me and asked me where to stay in Capri. If I know of any good hotels. She knew I had spent some time in this magic place and she would love to visit this complex and beautiful island in April.
I could not give her any hints on hotels since I was there on a scholarship staying at the San Michele high up in the Capri mountains in Anacapri.
After the Grotta Azzurra, the Museum-House of Villa San Michele is Anacapri's most visited tourist attraction. The villa dates back to the late 19th century, when the Swedish physician, writer and recreational archaeologist, Axel Munthe, adjudicated the site, previously occupied by an ancient roman construction, the perfect place where to build a house in which to display his collection of relics and classical artefacts. His book (above), still makes marvellous readings..
However, I was there in February which was not a good time. I was the only guest at San Michele (lonesome) and the powercuts caused me to sleep with mittens and a wolley cap. There was ice in the washbasin in the mornings and I am sure Axel Munte´s friendly ghost kept visiting me at night clad in a black swagger coat and a wide brimmed hat. He was just sort of checking up on me to see that I - his guest- was well under the circumstances, I am sure!
I actually met and old, wrinkeld sales lady that claimed she had met Munthe when she was very young.
Axel Munthe - a good looker and true ladies´ man - in the early 1930s

Capri indeed is a facinating, beautiful and magic place with a rather frightful and decadent past commencing with some of the Roman emperors and their parties in the deep caves still there..
..from which the young boys were made to jump to their death - after "use". Emperor Tiberius partying in Capri

The Barbarossa..Oscar Wilde and his tragic love story on this island..
I quite felt the vibes Capri´s complex history being there alone in cold February. But April is another story. It will be filling up with people, Maria will enjoy a limonchello at the piazettas, the almond trees in bloom, it will be warm and cosy and she will be able to enter the Blue Grotto - which was closed when I was there.
Anyway, I was able to make my report on Zambia´s hard currency auctions down there in San Michele - inspite of ten frozen fingers tapping away on the small typewriter in candellight at San Michele once on a very cold month of February quite hard to forget..
View from San Michele